German-themed Leavenworth, Washington, draws tourists to the ‘American Alps’

LEAVENWORTH, Washington – In the 1960s, after much of Leavenworth’s industry had closed or left, a group of community leaders was tasked with coming up with a solution to the desolate downtown.

Why not adopt a theme to attract visitors?

One of those leaders, who fought with the U.S. Army in Germany during World War II, was struck by the region’s similarity to the Bavarian Alps.

A theme was born.

Businesses were encouraged to adopt traditional Bavarian decor – adding stucco and rough-cut timber to their exteriors, along with flower boxes, balconies and benches.

Today, Leavenworth, in the foothills of Washington’s Cascade Mountains, is perhaps the most German village this side of the Atlantic Ocean.

Strict zoning requirements ensure that even the local McDonald’s and Starbucks use “Old World Bavarian Alpine” lettering on their signs.

My husband and I stopped by for a taste of southern Germany en route from North Cascades National Park back to Seattle.

We weren’t the only ones.

Some 60 years after the Bavarian theme was adopted, Leavenworth, population 2,400, draws more than 3 million visitors a year, who come here to eat schnitzel, dance the polka, drink beer, shop for Christmas decorations and take in the spectacular scenery.

Read more: Undeterred: A first-timer’s guide to Washington’s remote North Cascades National Park

We had only an afternoon, but there are more than a dozen hotels in town, and plenty of people stay for a weekend or more.

There are a couple of museums in town, along with river tubing (in the summer), a small ski hill (in the winter), a reindeer farm, hiking trails, an adventure park, theater and more.

But the predominant activity in Leavenworth seems to be strolling the shops of Front Street, enjoying a giant pretzel, a beer and the festive atmosphere.

Among our stops:

* The Munchen Haus for a pretzel and a pilsner, with a beer garden and mountain views.

* Kris Kringl, a massive Christmas store, filled with ornaments, lights, nativity scenes – even “A Christmas Story” leg lamp.

* Andreas Keller Restaurant, where we enjoyed outstanding schnitzel, sausages and spaetzle.

We also toured the Greater Leavenworth Museum, educating ourselves about the town’s history, from early Native American tribes to the arrival of the Great Northern Railway, the departure of lumber industry and finally, the birth of a Bavarian town.

Below the history museum is the Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum, filled with more than 9,000 versions of the decorative, functional devices, some of which date back hundreds of years. The museum opened in 1995 as a private showing of the large collection amassed by Arlene (“the nutcracker lady”) and George Wagner. It’s grown since then.

There is a huge variety of nutcrackers here, made out of everything from ivory to Legos, and in some unusual shapes, from George Washington to Harry Potter, dogs, frogs, and of course, plenty of Claras and Mouse Kings. Admission is $5, but the gift shop is free.

Leavenworth is especially popular during numerous annual special events, including Oktoberfest (Oct. 4-5, 11-12, 18-19 in 2024), Christmastown (the day after Thanksgiving through Christmas Eve), Maifest, an alphorn festival, accordion celebration and more.

For more information: Leavenworth.org