The grapes for 2024 are mostly picked and it has been a difficult year for many producers in Europe, especially France which will have its worst harvest in years.
Spain, however, is looking at a bumper harvest this year up 20% and may overtake France as the world’s biggest producer.
With this in mind I’m focusing on a native Spanish grape that is often overlooked and almost always good value — monastrell.
You may know monastrell better by its French name mourvèdre – it plays an important supporting role in most southern Rhône wines and a starring role in Provence (e.g. Bandol — try Domaine Tempier).
Monastrell likes its head in the sun and its feet in the sea it is said, and most is grown within 80km of the Mediterranean where it thrives in the long summers and mild winters.
Monastrell is the star grape in eastern Spain where it is often organically dry farmed at altitude in the beautiful vineyards of Valencia, Alicante, Jumilla and Yecla.
The grapes are small and thick-skinned and have the potential to make dark concentrated wines with structure and complexity, but it needs to be ripe and winemakers need to be careful to avoid reduction and oxidation.
Expect to see more mourvèdre in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the future as it is ripening better thanks to global warming. Three Monastrell to try below.
There are three wine dinners of note next week. On Tuesday in the River Lee Hotel you can meet Giacomo Boscaini of the legendary Masi Amarone family and taste their wines with a specially created menu.
I will be in the Mustard Seed on Wednesday 8th and in Cava Bodega in Galway on the 9th hosting Spanish food and wine nights as part of the nationwide Eat Drink Spain festival — tickets should still be available.
This is a bargain — 100% Monastrell with lots of soft dark fruit flavours, a touch of cinnamon and spice, and balancing acidity.
O’Briens have a couple of Luzón wines on offer this month and will also have a Rioja Harvest Promotion that runs from the 18th-28th with special offers on Murrieta and Conde Valdemar among others.
Made from 100% Monastrell in the tiny region of Yecla near Valencia this sees a small proportion of new oak which adds spice, but mostly it is lush with ripe juicy blackberry and blueberries with a touch of liquorice.
Their Rosado is also excellent as is their entry level Organic Monastrell.
The Velasquez family are making wine since 1711 and have been organic & biodynamic since 2002 (I’ve even met their shepherd).
The vines are dry farmed at altitude (650-680m) in deep porous soils that retain moisture— the grapes are vinified separately.
Vibrant bright blackberry aromas with a touch of spice — fruit driven, layered and delicious.
I’m just back from a fascinating trip to Kentucky Bourbon country and Michter’s in Louisville was a major highlight.
Michter’s only make single barrel or genuine small batch whiskey and grow much of their own grain.
This is gorgeous.
Aromas of sweet and bruised apple with vanilla and tropical fruit, and on the palate comes caramel and apple drops, charred oak notes with a smoky edge and a lingering sweet finish with apple skins and toffee.
